Bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Bouldering
at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Hachioji, Japan
Seoul, South Korea

Salt Lake City, United States
Prague, Czech Republic
Brixen, Italy

Innsbruck, Austria
Dates21 April – 18 June 2023
Champions
Men Sorato Anraku
Women Natalia Grossman

The 2023 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 24th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 21 at the World Cup in Hachioji, and concluded on June 18 with the World Cup in Innsbruck. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.

Natalia Grossman won the women's seasonal title. The men's seasonal title went to Sorato Anraku while Japan defended its title in the national teams competition.

Overview

Date Location Routesetters* Men Women
April, 21-23 Hachioji, Japan
  • Remi Samyn
  • Olga Niemiec
  • Sergio Verdasco
 Mejdi Schalck Brooke Raboutou
April, 28-30 Seoul, South Korea
  • Manuel Hassler
  • Tsukasa Mizuguchi
  • Marcin Wszolek
 Mejdi Schalck Miho Nonaka
May, 19-21 Salt Lake City, United States
  • Jamie Cassidy
  • Tsukuru Hori
  • Tsukasa Mizuguchi
 Tomoa Narasaki Natalia Grossman
June, 2-4 Prague, Czech Republic
  • Akito Matsushima
  • Olga Niemiec
  • Pierre Broyer
 Lee Dohyun Oriane Bertone
June, 9-11 Brixen, Italy
  • Matthias Woitzuck
  • Jamie Cassidy
  • Tsukuru Hori
  • Anna Borella
 Toby Roberts Natalia Grossman
June, 14-18 Innsbruck, Austria
  • Tomasz Oleksy
  • Gen Hirashima
  • Stephanie Sexton
  • Sergio Verdasco
 Sorato Anraku Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Sorato Anraku Natalia Grossman
NATIONAL TEAM Japan

* Chief routesetters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[1]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 Sorato Anraku 3350 5. 545 (29. 52*) 2. 805 7. 455 5. 545 1. 1000
2 Lee Dohyun 3130 7. 455 4. 610 (39. 15.3*) 1. 1000 2. 805 14. 260
3 Tomoa Narasaki 3000 10. 350 2. 805 1. 1000 10. 350 6. 495 (11. 325)
4 Toby Roberts 2710 (25. 89.5*) 8. 415 3. 690 15. 240 1. 1000 9. 365*
5 Mejdi Schalck 2690 1. 1000 1. 1000 (-) 3. 690 - -
6 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2335 13. 280 12. 300 (16. 220) 4. 610 3. 690 7. 455
7 Chon Jong-won 2275 6. 495 3. 690 14. 260 (16. 220) 16. 220 4. 610
8 Hannes Van Duysen 2140 2. 805 13. 280 6. 495 13. 280 (-) 13. 280
9 Meichi Narasaki 1945 8. 415 (85. 0) 25. 89.5* 35. 25.5* 4. 610 2. 805
10 Yannick Flohé 1750.5 11. 325 7. 455 (-) 5. 545 8. 415 45. 10.5*

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[2]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 Natalia Grossman 3527.5 8. 397.5* 11. 325 1. 1000 (-) 1. 1000 2. 805
2 Miho Nonaka 3005 11. 325 1. 1000 9. 380 4. 610 (-) 3. 690
3 Brooke Raboutou 2990 1. 1000 3. 690 3. 690 (-) - 4. 610
4 Oriane Bertone 2649.5 31. 39.5* 2. 805 2. 805 1. 1000 (-) -
5 Ayala Kerem 1995 4. 610 6. 495 (-) 13. 280 4. 610 -
6 Staša Gejo 1893 27. 68* 10. 350 (-) 5. 545 3. 690 15. 240
7 Oceana Mackenzie 1880 (35. 25.5*) 13. 280 12. 300 7. 455 5. 545 12. 300
8 Janja Garnbret 1805 (-) - - 2. 805 - 1. 1000
9 Anastasia Sanders 1765 37. 20* 5. 545 4. 610 (-) 15. 240 10. 350
10 Seo Chae-hyun 1744.5 14. 250 (29. 52*) 25. 89.5* 8. 415 2. 805 18. 185

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan 19130 3000 3395 3210 2740 2795 3990
2 France 13908 2336 3535 2328 3042 847 1820
3 United States 12598.5 1575 1828 3650 848 2260 2437.5
4 Korea 8028 1295 1407 550 1681 1857 1238
5 Germany 5895 1384 1252 443.5 874 1242 699.5
6 Slovenia 5859 872 315 361 1831 857 1623
7 Austria 5311 770 980 582 1354 980 645
8 United Kingdom 5236.5 370 995 1072 547 1725 527.5
9 Belgium 4323 921 772 658 610 27 1335
10 Israel 4151.33 1151 717 805 483 932 63.33

Hachioji, Japan (21-23 April)

Women

74 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Brooke Raboutou won her first World Cup in front of Hannah Meul as the only athlete to get 3 tops and 1 zone. Brooke Raboutou was the only athlete to top boulders 3 and 4 in the final. Anon Matsufuji completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal. [4][5][6]

Rank Name Score
1 Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 6 6
2 Hannah Meul 1T3z 1 8
3 Anon Matsufuji 0T3z 0 7
4 Ayala Kerem 0T3z 0 9
5 Luo Zhilu 0T3z 0 11
6 Mia Krampl 0T1z 0 9

Men

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Mejdi Schalck won the competition, being the only athlete to top more than one boulder. He was the only one to top boulder 1. Hannes Van Duysen placed 2nd, claiming his first IFSC World Cup medal. Paul Jenft rounded out the podium in third.[7][8]

Rank Name Score
1 Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 7 7
2 Hannes Van Duysen 1T3z 2 11
3 Paul Jenft 1T3z 3 3
4 Kokoro Fujii 0T3z 0 9
5 Sorato Anraku 0T3z 0 11
6 Chon Jong-won 0T3z 0 13

Seoul, South Korea (28-30 April)

Women

75 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The results were based on semifinal standings after the finals were cancelled due to rain delay. [9] Miho Nonaka won the competition — her first win since Meiringen 2018. Oriane Bertone and Brooke Raboutou finished second and third respectively, separated only by attempts.[10][11]

Rank Name Score
1 Miho Nonaka 2T3z 20 22
2 Oriane Bertone 2T2z 4 3
3 Brooke Raboutou 2T2z 10 7
4 Anon Matsufuji 1T3z 4 15
5 Anastasia Sanders 1T3z 5 23
6 Ayala Kerem 1T2z 6 9

Men

87 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The results were based on semifinal standings after the finals were cancelled due to rain delay. Seoul winner Mejdi Schalck won back-to-back World Cups, finishing ahead of Tomoa Narasaki, with attempts separating the two. Chon Jong-won placed third, his first podium since Vail 2019. [12][13]

Rank Name Score
1 Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 2 7
2 Tomoa Narasaki 2T3z 6 10
3 Chon Jong-won 2T2z 2 2
4 Lee Dohyun 1T2z 1 9
5 Manuel Cornu 1T2z 4 5
6 Nicolai Uznik 1T1z 2 2

Salt Lake City, United States (19–21 May)

Women

61 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. Last year's winner Natalia Grossman was the only athlete to achieve 4 tops, winning a fifth-straight boulder gold in Salt Lake City. Oriane Bertone won silver over Brooke Raboutou. [14][15]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 5 5
2 Oriane Bertone 2T4z 3 6
3 Brooke Raboutou 2T3z 4 10
4 Anastasia Sanders 1T4z 6 16
5 Luo Zhilu 1T3z 1 5
6 Fanny Gibert 0T3z 0 7

Men

64 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. In the final, teammates Tomoa Narasaki and Sorato Anraku topped all the boulders in the finals, but Narasaki won the gold medal based on attempts. Anraku won silver and Toby Roberts bronze respectively — claiming their first IFSC World Cup medals. [16][17]

Rank Name Score
1 Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 6 5
2 Sorato Anraku 4T4z 12 6
3 Toby Roberts 3T4z 8 10
4 Sean Bailey 3T3z 8 7
5 Daiki Sano 2T4z 6 11
6 Hannes Van Duysen 2T3z 3 4

Prague, Czech Republic (2-4 June)

Women

73 athletes attended the World Cup in Prague. Oriane Bertone won her first World Cup ahead of Janja Garnbret. Bertone and Garnbret were the only athletes to get 3 tops and 4 zones in the final, separated only by 2 attempts to top. Flavy Cohaut completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal in her first final. [18]

Rank Name Score
1 Oriane Bertone 3T4z 4 5
2 Janja Garnbret 3T4z 6 7
3 Flavy Cohaut 2T3z 6 12
4 Miho Nonaka 1T3z 1 3
5 Stasa Gejo 0T2z 0 8
6 Futaba Ito 0T2z 0 9

Men

94 athletes attended the World Cup in Prague. Prague 2023 marked Adam Ondra's return to boulder World Cups since 2021. Lee Dohyun won his first World Cup in front of Adam Ondra. Both Lee and Ondra completed all 4 problems in the final. But Lee claimed gold due to lower attempts to top. Mejdi Schalck placed third. [19][20]

Rank Name Score
1 Lee Dohyun 4T4z 5 5
2 Adam Ondra 4T4z 13 9
3 Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 3 6
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T4z 5 5
5 Yannick Flohé 3T3z 9 7
6 Jan-Luca Posch 1T3z 1 7

Brixen, Italy (9-11 June)

Women

79 athletes attended the World Cup in Brixen. Natalia Grossman won the competition, repeating her win in Brixen last year. Seo Chae-hyun took the silver — her first boulder World Cup medal. Stasa Gejo won bronze, making her first podium since the World Championships in Moscow two years before. [21][22]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 12 12
2 Seo Chae-hyun 3T4z 3 9
3 Stasa Gejo 3T4z 5 6
4 Ayala Kerem 3T4z 10 16
5 Oceania Mackenzie 2T3z 5 6
6 Johanna Färber 1T2z 4 14

Men

90 athletes attended the World Cup in Brixen. Toby Roberts was the only athlete to get 3 tops and 4 zones, winning his first World Cup. Few attempts to tops and zones proved important for the podium as the 2nd to 4th placements were separated by attempts. In the final, Sorato Anraku was the only one to top boulder 2. Lee Dohyun and Yoshiyuki Ogata claimed silver and bronze respectively. [23][24]

Rank Name Score
1 Toby Roberts 3T4z 10 7
2 Lee Dohyun 2T4z 3 4
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 5 6
4 Meichi Narasaki 2T4z 5 11
5 Sorato Anraku 2T2z 5 2
6 Tomoa Narasaki 1T2z 1 2

Innsbruck, Austria (14-18 June)

Women

92 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck. In the final, Janja Garnbret flashed all four boulders to take the win. Natalia Grossman and Miho Nonaka placed second and third respectively, separated by attempts.[25][26]

Rank Name Score
1 Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4
2 Natalia Grossman 2T4z 2 11
3 Miho Nonaka 2T4z 2 13
4 Brooke Raboutou 2T3z 5 11
5 Ai Mori 1T2z 1 3
6 Futaba Ito 0T3z 0 12

Men

110 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck. Last year's winner Colin Duffy failed to advance past the semi-final round. Sorato Anraku won his first World Cup ahead of compatriot Meichi Narasaki with attempts separating them. In the final, Anraku was the only athlete to get a zone and top on boulder 2. This also marked Narasaki's first World Cup podium since Vail 2017. Sam Avezou placed third, earning his first World Cup medal. [27][28]

Rank Name Score
1 Sorato Anraku 3T3z 11 9
2 Meichi Narasaki 3T3z 15 11
3 Sam Avezou 2T2z 4 3
4 Chon Jong-won 2T2z 6 6
5 Nicolas Collin 2T2z 7 7
6 Simon Lorenzi 0T0z 0 0

References

  1. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2023 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  2. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2023 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2023 National Team Ranking".
  4. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji (JPN) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering".
  5. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Hachioji: Brooke Raboutou claims maiden title". Olympics. 22 April 2023.
  6. ^ "Brooke Raboutou, Mejdi Schalck win Boulder World Cup 2023 debut in Hachioji". Planet Mountain. 24 April 2023.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji (JPN) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering".
  8. ^ "Schalck and Raboutou earn victories at first IFSC World Cup of season in Hachioji". insidethegames.biz. 23 April 2023.
  9. ^ "IFSC Boulder World Cup Seoul 2023: Nonaka and Schalck win Gold". UKClimbing. 1 May 2023.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Seoul (KOR) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 April 2023.
  11. ^ "Mejdi Schalck, Nonaka Miho win boulder titles at rain-hit Seoul World Cup 2023". Olympics. 30 April 2023.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Seoul (KOR) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 April 2023.
  13. ^ "Mejdi Schalck and Miho Nonaka win the World Cup in Seoul". Lacrux. 1 May 2023.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 21 May 2023.
  15. ^ "Narasaki and Grossman win IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City". UKClimbing. 22 May 2023.
  16. ^ "Natalia Grossman Wins at Salt Lake City World Cup—Results and Recap". Climbing Magazine. 22 May 2023.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 22 May 2023.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Prague (CZE) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 June 2025.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Prague(CZE) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 4 June 2023.
  20. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Prague: Dohyun Lee takes boulder win as Adam Ondra returns with silver". Olympics. 4 June 2023.
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Brixen (ITA) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 11 June 2023.
  22. ^ "Roberts and Grossman win IFSC Boulder World Cup Brixen 2023". UKClimbing. 12 June 2023.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Brixen (ITA) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 11 June 2023.
  24. ^ "Roberts and Grossman Take Gold in Brixen Heat". Inside Climbing. 13 June 2023.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 16 June 2023.
  26. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Innsbruck: Janja Garnbret wins double gold". Olympics. 19 June 2023.
  27. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 29 June 2023.
  28. ^ "Garnbret and Anraku win Boulder; Garnbret and Lehmann take Lead in Innsbruck World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 19 June 2023.
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