Bouldering at the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Bouldering
at the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Meiringen, Switzerland
Seoul, South Korea

Salt Lake City, United States
Salt Lake City, United States
Brixen, Italy

Innsbruck, Austria
Dates8 April – 25 June 2022
Champions
Men Yoshiyuki Ogata
Women Natalia Grossman

The 2022 season of the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 23rd season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 8 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on June 25 with the World Cup in Innsbruck. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.

Natalia Grossman won the women's seasonal title. The men's seasonal title went to Yoshiyuki Ogata while Japan defended its title in the national teams competition.

Overview

Date Location Routesetters* Men Women
April, 8-10 Meiringen, Switzerland
  • Laurent Laporte
  • Garrett Gregor
  • Gen Hirashima
Tomoa Narasaki Janja Garnbret
May, 6-8 Seoul, South Korea
  • Manuel Hassler
  • Tomasz Oleksy
  • Tsukasa Mizuguchi
Kokoro Fujii Natalia Grossman
May, 20-22 Salt Lake City, United States
  • Remi Samyn
  • Manuel Hassler
  • Akito Matsushima
Mejdi Schalck Natalia Grossman
May, 27-29 Salt Lake City, United States
  • Romain Cabessut
  • Tomasz Oleksy
  • Olga Niemiec
Yoshiyuki Ogata Natalia Grossman
June, 10-12 Brixen, Italy
  • Marcin Wszolek
  • Mathieu Dutray
  • Tsukuru Hori
Yannick Flohé Natalia Grossman
June, 22-25 Innsbruck, Austria
  • Romain Cabessut
  • Brad Weaver
  • Tonde Katiyo
Colin Duffy Natalia Grossman
OVERALL WINNERS Yoshiyuki Ogata Natalia Grossman
NATIONAL TEAM Japan

* Chief routesetters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[1]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1 Yoshiyuki Ogata 3990 2. 805 3. 690 2. 805 1. 1000 5. (545) 3. 690
2 Tomoa Narasaki 3405 1. 1000 2. 805 7. 455 3. 690 7. 455
3 Kokoro Fujii 3110 6. 495 1. 1000 14. (260) 3. 690 9. 380 5. 545
4 Yannick Flohé 2475 5. 545 7. 435 1. 1000 6. 495
5 Mejdi Schalck 2294 3. 690 7. 455 1. 1000 21. 137.5 43. 11.5
6 Maximillian Milne 2215 8. 415 8. 415 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 14. (260)
7 Lee Dohyun 2128.5 41. 13.5 10. 350 10. 350 4. 610 2. 805
8 Colin Duffy 1976 5. 545 21. 137.5 13. 280 41. 13.5 1. 1000
9 Chon Jong-won 1957.5 21. 112.5 12. 300 4. 610 11. 325 4. 610
10 Rei Kawamata 1774.5 31. 39.5 3. 690 5. 545 14. 260 15. 240

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[1]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1 Natalia Grossman 5000 2. (805) 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 Miho Nonaka 3210 26. (68) 8. 415 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 3. 690
3 Brooke Raboutou 2940 12. 300 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690 7. 455
4 Futaba Ito 2560 5. 545 15. (240) 9. 380 4. 610 8. 415 4. 610
5 Hannah Meul 2345 7. 455 13. 280 2. 805 2. 805
6 Oriane Bertone 2316.5 4. 610 2. 805 7. 455 8. 415 33. 31.5
7 Jessica Pilz 2215 18. (185) 7. 455 4. 610 13. 280 7. 455 8. 415
8 Staša Gejo 2195 6. 495 4. 610 8. 415 11. 325 10. 350 16. (220)
9 Seo Chae-hyun 1930 17. (205) 14. 260 5. 545 12. 300 13. 280 5. 545
10 Camilla Moroni 1820 13. 280 5. 545 6. 495 17. (205) 16. 220 13. 280

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[2]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City Salt Lake City Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan 20783 3013 3645 3260 4000 3485 3380
2 United States 15223 2385 2204 3045 3030 3198 1361
3 France 10175.5 2820 2585 1550 940 1218.5 1062
4 Austria 8194 795 1120 2415 1108 1068 1688
5 Germany 8141.5 960 719 1340 944 1797.5 2381
6 Korea 6994.5 614 1112 - 1679 2323.5 1266
7 Slovenia 5979.5 1885 721 616 1225 662.5 870
8 United Kingdom 5353.5 520 662 689 1383 763.5 1336
9 Italy 3893.16 340 724 992 780 569.66 487.5
10 Israel 2678.5 293 145.5 462 628 540 610

Meiringen, Switzerland (8-10 April)

Women

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Janja Garnbret won the competition ahead of Natalia Grossman as the only athlete to get 4 tops. Garnbret was the only athlete to top the technical boulder 1 in the final. Andrea Kümin completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal. [3][4]

Rank Name Score
1 Janja Garnbret 4T4z 5 5
2 Natalia Grossman 3T4z 8 16
3 Andrea Kümin 1T2z 1 3
4 Oriane Bertone 1T2z 1 5
5 Futaba Ito 0T2z 0 8
6 Stasa Gejo 0T1z 0 3

Men

112 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Tomoa Narasaki took the win. In the final, the top 4 finishers, including Yoshiyuki Ogata and Mejdi Schalck, had similar results — 2 tops and 3 zones — with attempts deciding the podium. Boulder 3 saw athletes attempting an unintended face-in starting position. Controversy ensued when a judge's late call on Colin Duffy's incorrect starting position on boulder 3 resulted in Duffy's 19 attempts to top. He was one of two athletes to top boulder 3.[5]

Rank Name Score
1 Tomoa Narasaki 2T3z 3 6
2 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T3z 5 19
3 Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 7 9
4 Paul Jenft 2T3z 15 18
5 Colin Duffy 1T4z 19 27
6 Kokoro Fujii 1T3z 4 27

Seoul, South Korea (6-8 May)

Women

55 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. [6] Natalia Grossman won the competition. A high-scoring final round meant that athletes needed at least 3 tops to reach the podium. Grossman was the only athlete to top all boulders in the qualification, semifinal and final rounds. Oriane Bertone and Brooke Raboutou finished second and third respectively.[7]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 7 5
2 Oriane Bertone 3T4z 5 5
3 Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 6 5
4 Stasa Gejo 2T4z 3 13
5 Camilla Moroni 1T2z 6 8
6 Mia Aoyagi 0T3z 0 4

Men

53 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The Japanese team dominated the finals and swept the podium, securing five of the six finalist spots. In the final, world champion Kokoro Fujii won the competition with four tops — finishing ahead of compatriot Tomoa Narasaki having used 1 less attempt to top. This marked Fujii's return to the top spot at a World Cup since Chongqing 2018. Yoshiyuki Ogata placed third. [8][9]

Rank Name Score
1 Kokoro Fujii 4T4z 11 4
2 Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 12 8
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T4z 6 7
4 Paul Jenft 2T4z 4 11
5 Meichi Narasaki 2T3z 3 6
6 Keita Dohi 1T4z 2 14

Salt Lake City, United States (20-22 May)

Women

58 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. Last year's winner Natalia Grossman was the only athlete to achieve 4 tops.Brooke Raboutou won silver over Miho Nonaka. [10]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 9 9
2 Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 5 14
3 Miho Nonaka 3T4z 9 18
4 Jessica Pilz 3T4z 16 19
5 Franziska Sterrer 1T3z 1 7
6 Camilla Moroni 1T3z 2 21

Men

69 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. Seoul winner Kokoro Fujii failed to advance past the semifinals. In the final, Mejdi Schalck and Yoshiyuki Ogata topped all the boulders in the finals, but Schalck won the gold medal based on attempts. Ogata won silver and Rei Kawamata bronze, claiming his first IFSC World Cup bronze medal. [11][12]

Rank Name Score
1 Mejdi Schalck 4T4z 9 6
2 Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4z 11 10
3 Rei Kawamata 3T4z 14 12
4 Nicolai Uznik 2T3z 8 10
5 Yannick Flohé 1T4z 1 10
6 Jakob Schubert 1T2z 1 6

Salt Lake City, United States (27-29 May)

Women

53 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. Seo Chae-hyun and Ayala Kerem made their first boulder World Cup final. Natalia Grossman won her third consecutive World Cup of the boulder season. Grossman was the only athlete to top all 4 boulders in the final. In a repeat podium from the previous week, Miho Nonaka and Brooke Raboutou won silver and bronze respectively. [13]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 10 4
2 Miho Nonaka 3T4z 5 5
3 Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 6 4
4 Futaba Ito 3T4z 9 9
5 Seo Chae-hyun 2T4z 2 8
6 Ayala Kerem 2T4z 3 8

Men

71 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. In the final, Yoshiyuki Ogata and Anze Peharc had identical scores, having topped all four boulders in 5 attempts. Ogata won gold over Peharc by virtue of his better semifinal performance. Kokoro Fujii finished third. [14][15]

Rank Name Score
1 Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4z 5 5
2 Anze Peharc 4T4z 5 5
3 Kokoro Fujii 4T4z 9 8
4 Chon Jong-won 3T4z 4 5
5 Rei Kawamata 3T3z 7 6
6 Ross Fulkerson 2T2z 4 3

Brixen, Italy (10-12 June)

Women

80 athletes attended the World Cup in Brixen. Natalia Grossman won the competition, topping all the boulders in the competition. Hannah Meul took the silver — her first boulder World Cup medal. Luo Zhilu won bronze, securing her first World Cup medal in her debut World Cup. [16][17]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 6 5
2 Hannah Meul 4T4z 6 6
3 Luo Zhilu 2T4z 5 9
4 Miho Nonaka 1T4z 1 4
5 Anon Matsufuji 1T3z 4 6
6 Serika Okawachi 0T3z 0 8

Men

99 athletes attended the World Cup in Brixen. A powerful set of final boulders saw each finalist secure no more than 2 tops. Yannick Flohé was the only athlete to get 2 tops and 2 zones in the final, winning his first World Cup. Few attempts to tops and zones proved important for the podium as attempts to zones decided 3rd and 4th place. Maximillian Milne scored his first World Cup medal, taking silver while Tomoa Narasaki placed third. [18][19]

Rank Name Score
1 Yannick Flohé 2T4z 5 9
2 Maximillian Milne 2T3z 6 9
3 Tomoa Narasaki 1T4z 4 9
4 Lee Dohyun 1T4z 4 22
5 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1T4z 7 13
6 Meichi Narasaki 1T3z 2 8

Innsbruck, Austria (22-26 June)

Women

97 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck. Natalia Grossman and Hannah Meul repeated their top 2 finish in Brixen by topping all four final boulders, with attempts determining Grossman's gold over Meul. Miho Nonaka finished third. With five consecutive World Cup wins in the season, Grossman comfortably won the 2022 overall boulder World Cup title over Miho Nonaka and Brooke Raboutou. [20][21]

Rank Name Score
1 Natalia Grossman 4T4z 5 5
2 Hannah Meul 4T4z 7 6
3 Miho Nonaka 2T2z 3 2
4 Futaba Ito 1T2z 1 2
5 Seo Chae-hyun 1T2z 1 3
6 Saki Kikuchi 0T2z 0 2

Men

135 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck. Colin Duffy bested experienced boulderers in the final to win his first World Cup. Lee Dohyun won his first World Cup silver medal and Yoshiyuki Ogata took bronze. Ogata's consistent performance in 2022 - never placing lower than fifth all season - saw him win the overall boulder World Cup title over compatriots Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii. [22][23]

Rank Name Score
1 Colin Duffy 3T4z 12 9
2 Lee Dohyun 2T4z 10 12
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 10 14
4 Chon Jong-won 2T3z 2 3
5 Kokoro Fujii 2T3z 3 4
6 Yannick Flohé 2T3z 7 7

References

  1. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-06-27.
  2. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2022 National Team Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2022 - General result W O M E N bouldering".
  4. ^ "IFSC Boulder World Cup 2022 - Meiringen Report". UKClimbing. 12 April 2022.
  5. ^ "Janja Garnbret, Tomoa Narasaki dominate Meiringen 2022 Boulder World Cup debut".
  6. ^ "IFSC - Climbing World Cup (B,S) - Seoul (KOR) - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. 8 May 2022.
  7. ^ "Natalia Grossman and Fujii Kokoro win Boulder titles at the climbing World Cup in Seoul - Results". Olympics. 8 May 2022.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Seoul (KOR) 2022 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 8 May 2022.
  9. ^ "Second IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the season: Natalia Grossman and Fujii Kokoro win gold". Lacrux. 9 May 2022.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2022 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 22 May 2022.
  11. ^ "Natalia Grossman, Mejdi Schalck climb to spectacular Boulder World Cup victory in Salt Lake City". Planet Mountain. 23 May 2022.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2022 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 23 May 2022.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Prague (CZE) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 June 2025.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2022 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 May 2022.
  15. ^ "Natalia Grossman, Ogata Yoshiyuki take boulder finals at 2nd weekend of World Cup in Salt Lake City". Olympics. 30 May 2022.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Brixen (ITA) 2022 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 June 2022.
  17. ^ "IFSC Boulder World Cup Brixen - Report". UKClimbing. 14 June 2022.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Brixen (ITA) 2022 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 June 2022.
  19. ^ "Japan Dethroned by Germany's Yannick Flohé at Brixen World Cup". Gripped Climbing Magazine. 12 June 2022.
  20. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2022 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 26 June 2022.
  21. ^ "American Natalia Grossman wins boulder title at IFSC World Cup 2022 in Innsbruck". Olympics. 25 June 2022.
  22. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2022 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 29 June 2022.
  23. ^ "18-Year-Old American Takes Gold at Innsbruck World Cup". Gripped Climbing Magazine. 23 June 2022.