Lead climbing at the 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup
| Lead climbing at the 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
|---|---|
| Location | |
| Dates | 12 April – 6 October 2024 |
| Champions | |
| Men | Toby Roberts |
| Women | Jessica Pilz |
Competition lead climbing at the 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 12 April to 6 October 2025. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each event. Toby Roberts won the men's season title, Jessica Pilz won the women's season title, and Japan won the national team title.[1]
Overview
| Date | Location | Routesetters* | Men | Women | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| April, 12-14 | Wujiang, China | Toby Roberts | Janja Garnbret | ||
| June, 26-30 | Innsbruck, Austria | Jakob Schubert | Janja Garnbret | ||
| July, 12-14 | Chamonix, France | Colin Duffy | Ai Mori | ||
| July, 17-19 | Briançon, France | Zento Murashita | Mei Kotake | ||
| September, 6-7 | Koper, Slovenia | Toby Roberts | Janja Garnbret | ||
| October, 2-6 | Seoul, South Korea | Sorato Anraku | Jessica Pilz | ||
| OVERALL WINNERS | Toby Roberts | Jessica Pilz | |||
| NATIONAL TEAM | Japan | ||||
* Chief routesetters are in bold.
Overall ranking
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
Men
The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2024:[2]
| Rank | Name | Points | Wujiang | Innsbruck | Chamonix | Briançon | Koper | Seoul |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Toby Roberts | 3380 | 1. 1000 | 3. 690 | 3. 690 | - | 1. 1000 | - |
| 2 | Shion Omata | 2915 | 9. 380 | 16. (220) | 5. 545 | 3. 690 | 4. 610 | 3. 690 |
| 3 | Sorato Anraku | 2845 | 3. 690 | 10. 350 | - | - | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 |
| 4 | Zento Murashita | 2665 | 4. 610 | 11. 325 | 9. 380 | 1. 1000 | 10. 350 | 11. (325) |
| 5 | Sam Avezou | 2330 | 12. 290 | - | 2. 805 | - | 3. 690 | 5. 545 |
| 6 | Taisei Homma | 2140 | 2. 805 | 6. 495 | 17. 205 | 16. 220 | 25. (95) | 8. 415 |
| 7 | Satone Yoshida | 2080 | 11. 325 | 12. 300 | 12. 300 | 2. 805 | 20. (155) | 10. 350 |
| 8 | Sascha Lehmann | 2040 | 5. 545 | 9. 380 | 7. 455 | - | 9. 380 | 13. 280 |
| 9 | Shuta Tanaka | 1960 | 7. 455 | 5. 545 | 31. (42) | 7. 455 | 17. 205 | 12. 300 |
| 10 | Colin Duffy | 1765 | 20. 155 | 4. 610 | 1. 1000 | - | - | - |
| 11 | Ao Yurikusa | 1730 | 12. 290 | 17. (205) | 11. 325 | 13. 280 | 7. 455 | 9. 380 |
| 12 | Max Bertone | 1690 | - | 19. 170 | 14. 260 | 4. 610 | 6. 495 | 20. 155 |
| 13 | Lee Dohyun | 1440 | 16. 220 | - | - | - | 8. 415 | 2. 805 |
| 14 | Yuta Imaizumi | 1420 | 21. 145 | 24. 105 | 28. 63 | 8. 415 | 12. 300 | 7. 455 |
| 15 | Kibeom Kwon | 1345 | - | 20. 155 | 13. 280 | 11. 325 | 11. 325 | 14. 260 |
| 16 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | 1303 | 19. 170 | 35. (25.5) | 27. 73 | 9. 380 | 18. 185 | 6. 495 |
| 17 | Filip Schenk | 1095 | 18. 185 | 18. 185 | 24. (105) | 17. 205 | 13. 280 | 15. 240 |
| 18 | Stefano Ghisolfi | 1090 | 22. 130 | 14. 260 | 10. 350 | 10. 350 | - | - |
| 18 | Jonas Utelli | 1090 | 23. 120 | 7. 455 | 23. 120 | 20. 155 | 15. 240 | 26. (84) |
| 20 | Jakob Schubert | 1090 | - | 1. 1000 | - | - | - | - |
Women
The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2024:[3]
| Rank | Name | Points | Wujiang | Innsbruck | Chamonix | Briançon | Koper | Seoul |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jessica Pilz | 3220 | - | 4. 610 | 2. 805 | - | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 |
| 2 | Janja Garnbret | 3000 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | - | - | 1. 1000 | - |
| 3 | Ai Mori | 2610 | - | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 | - | - | 2. 805 |
| 4 | Seo Chae-hyun | 2370 | 3. 690 | 3. 690 | - | - | 9. 380 | 4. 610 |
| 5 | Mei Kotake | 2355 | - | 16. 220 | 3. 690 | 1. 1000 | 25. 95 | 10. 350 |
| 6 | Anastasia Sanders | 2330 | - | 6. 495 | 7. 455 | - | 3. 690 | 3. 690 |
| 7 | Mattea Pötzi | 2315 | 20. 155 | 7. 455 | 6. 495 | 3. 690 | 7. 455 | 16. 220 |
| 8 | Laura Rogora | 2235 | 6. 495 | 15. 240 | - | 2. 805 | 8. 415 | 13. 280 |
| 9 | Zelia Avezou | 1625 | 12. 300 | - | 4. 610 | - | 5. 545 | 19. 170 |
| 10 | Mia Krampl | 1600 | 8. 415 | 17. 205 | 8. 415 | - | 11. 325 | 15. 240 |
| 11 | Flora Oblasser | 1590 | - | 10. 350 | 5. 545 | 8. 415 | 13. 280 | - |
| 12 | Erin McNeice | 1585 | 5. 545 | - | - | - | 6. 495 | 5. 545 |
| 13 | Natsumi Oda | 1453 | 7. 455 | 22. 130 | 10. 350 | 7. 455 | 30. (48) | 28. 63 |
| 14 | Hélène Janicot | 1340 | 19. 170 | - | 13. 270 | 12. 300 | 16. 220 | 9. 380 |
| 15 | Natsuki Tanii | 1305 | 4. 610 | 23. 120 | 13. 270 | 26. (84) | 23. 120 | 18. 185 |
| 16 | Rosa Rekar | 1291 | - | - | 29. 56 | 4. 610 | 22. 130 | 6. 495 |
| 17 | Aleksandra Totkova | 1280 | - | 5. 545 | 15. 240 | 6. 495 | - | - |
| 18 | Oceania Mackenzie | 1272 | - | 32. 37 | 11. 325 | - | 4. 610 | 12. 300 |
| 19 | Camille Pouget | 1265 | - | 13. 280 | 12. 300 | 15. 240 | 12. 300 | 21. 145 |
| 20 | Luo Zhilu | 1220 | 2. 805 | - | - | - | - | 8. 415 |
Wujiang, China (April, 12-14)
60 men and 59 women attended the event.[4]
In the men's, Toby Roberts won the competition ahead of Taisei Homma. In the final, Roberts and Homma received identical scores. Roberts was awarded the gold by virtue of his better semi-final performance. Sorato Anraku won the bronze medal.[5]
In women's, Slovenian Janja Garnbret won the competition — topping all the routes. China's Luo Zhilu finished second, claiming her first lead World Cup medal. South Korea's Seo Chae-hyun placed third.[6]
| Men | Women | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
| R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
| Toby Roberts | TOP | TOP | 45+ | 36+ | Janja Garnbret | TOP | TOP | TOP | TOP | ||
| Taisei Homma | TOP | TOP | 31+ | 36+ | Luo Zhilu | TOP | TOP | 40+ | 44+ | ||
| Sorato Anraku | TOP | TOP | 44+ | 32+ | Seo Chae-hyun | 39+ | TOP | 38+ | 43+ | ||
| 4 | Zento Murashita | 28+ | 38+ | 31 | 24+ | 4 | Natsuki Tanii | 37+ | 41+ | 39+ | 40 |
| 5 | Sascha Lehmann | 28+ | 38+ | 31+ | 24 | 5 | Erin McNeice | 37+ | 37+ | 37 | 39 |
| 6 | Hannes Van Duysen | 28+ | 37+ | 31+ | 24 | 6 | Laura Rogora | TOP | TOP | 42+ | 34+ |
| 7 | Shuta Tanaka | 27+ | 36 | 32+ | 23+ | 7 | Natsumi Oda | 37+ | 41 | 40+ | 34+ |
| 8 | Maximillian Milne | 24+ | 33 | 32+ | 23+ | 8 | Mia Krampl | 37+ | 35 | 34+ | 34+ |
| 9 | Shion Omata | 28+ | 38+ | 31 | 21+ | ||||||
Innsbruck, Austria (June, 26-30)
88 men and 78 women attended the event.[7]
In men's, last year's winner Sascha Lehmann failed to advance past the semi-finals. Austrian Jakob Schubert won the competition — his first Innsbruck lead World Cup win since 2021. Germany's Alexander Megos and Great Britain's Toby Roberts claimed silver and bronze respectively.[8]
In women's, identical final and semi-final scores led to count-back to the qualifiers to determine first and second place. Eventually, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret took the win, clipping the final quickdraw to top the final route. Japan's Ai Mori and South Korea's Seo Chae-hyun placed second and third respectively.[9]
| Men | Women | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
| R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
| Jakob Schubert | 40+ | 37+ | 49+ | 45 | Janja Garnbret | TOP | 48+ | 48+ | TOP | ||
| Alexander Megos | 41+ | 34+ | 49+ | 42+ | Ai Mori | 49+ | 48+ | 48+ | TOP | ||
| Toby Roberts | 42 | 32+ | 46+ | 41+ | Seo Chae-hyun | 43 | 42+ | 35+ | 36 | ||
| 4 | Colin Duffy | 31+ | 33+ | 44+ | 40+ | 4 | Jessica Pilz | 39+ | 46+ | 43+ | 22+ |
| 5 | Shuta Tanaka | 37+ | 35+ | 43 | 34+ | 5 | Aleksandra Totkova | 34 | 40 | 40+ | 22+ |
| 6 | Taisei Homma | 40+ | 34+ | 46+ | 29 | 6 | Anastasia Sanders | 43 | 43+ | 35 | 22+ |
| 7 | Jonas Utelli | 36+ | 36+ | 44+ | 29 | 7 | Mattea Pötzi | 37+ | 42+ | 34+ | 22+ |
| 8 | Tomoa Narasaki | 36+ | 32 | 43 | 28+ | 8 | Yuetong Zhang | 37+ | 42 | 35+ | 21+ |
Chamonix, France (July, 12-14)
68 men and 63 women attended the event.[10]
In men's, USA's Colin Duffy climbed second in the final, setting the high point for the other finalists. The other finalists failed to match or surpass his high point, allowing Duffy to win ahead of France's Sam Avezou and Great Britain's Toby Roberts who won silver and bronze respectively.[11][12]
In women's, Japan's Ai Mori and Austria's Jessica Pilz both topped the final route. First and second placed on the podium were determined by countback to the semi-finals. Mori won ahead of Pilz due to her superior semi-final performance. Japan's Mei Kotake claimed her first World Cup bronze medal.[13]
| Men | Women | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
| R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
| Colin Duffy | 38+ | 37+ | 35+ | 42+ | Ai Mori | TOP | TOP | 45+ | TOP | ||
| Sam Avezou | TOP | TOP | 40+ | 41+ | Jessica Pilz | TOP | TOP | 43+ | TOP | ||
| Toby Roberts | TOP | TOP | TOP | 39 | Mei Kotake | TOP | TOP | 35+ | 44+ | ||
| 4 | Alberto Ginés López | TOP | TOP | 41 | 38+ | 4 | Zélia Avezou | 42+ | 43+ | 35+ | 44+ |
| 5 | Shion Omata | TOP | TOP | 40+ | 38+ | 5 | Flora Oblasser | 40+ | 35+ | 38 | 42+ |
| 6 | Adam Ondra | TOP | TOP | 40+ | 37+ | 6 | Mattea Pötzi | 41+ | TOP | 35+ | 42+ |
| 7 | Sascha Lehmann | 38+ | 38+ | 35+ | 36+ | 7 | Anastasia Sanders | 36+ | TOP | 40 | 41+ |
| 8 | Guillermo Peinado Franganillo | 38+ | TOP | 34 | 31+ | 8 | Mia Krampl | 39+ | TOP | 35+ | 41+ |
Briançon, France (July, 17-19)
59 men and 60 women attended the event.[14]
In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Zento Murashita claimed the win, Satone Yoshida placed second, and Shion Omata placed third. In the semi-final, Murashita, Yoshida and Omata all managed to top the men's lead route. Murashita had never been on a World Cup podium before.[15]
In women's, Japan's Mei Kotake was the only athlete to top both qualification routes. Kotake's strong performance in the final allowed her to claim her first World Cup win 11 years after her World Cup debut. Italy's Laura Rogora placed second and Austria's Mattea Pötzi placed third, her first podium finish at the lead World Cup.[16][17]
| Men | Women | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
| R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
| Zento Murashita | 35+ | 35 | TOP | 47+ | Mei Kotake | TOP | TOP | 39+ | 49+ | ||
| Satone Yoshida | 35+ | 38+ | TOP | 45 | Laura Rogora | 44+ | 41+ | 41+ | 45 | ||
| Shion Omata | TOP | 38+ | TOP | 42+ | Mattea Pötzi | 37+ | 8+ | 41+ | 42+ | ||
| 4 | Max Bertone | 32+ | 33+ | 47 | 42+ | 4 | Rosa Rekar | 34+ | 36+ | 39 | 41+ |
| 5 | Sebastian Halenke | 32+ | 35 | 45 | 42+ | 5 | Kim Ja-in | TOP | 37+ | 40+ | 39+ |
| 6 | Mototaka Ishizu | 32+ | 35 | 46+ | 41+ | 6 | Aleksandra Totkova | 34 | 37+ | 39+ | 39+ |
| 7 | Shuta Tanaka | 33 | 30+ | 48+ | 39 | 7 | Natsumi Oda | 37 | 26+ | 39+ | 29+ |
| 8 | Yuta Imaizumi | 32+ | 33+ | 45+ | 38+ | 8 | Flora Oblasser | 35+ | 35+ | 38+ | 27+ |
Koper, Slovenia (September, 6-7)
58 men and 58 women attended the event.[18]
In men's Great Britain's Toby Roberts, having just won the Olympic champion title in August, climbed closest to the top of the route, securing the win. Olympic silver medallist Sorato Anraku took second place and France's Sam Avezou took third.[19]
In women's, 2-time Olympic champion Janja Garnbret topped the qualification and semi-final routes, dominated the final route — claiming the win. Olympic bronze medallist Jessica Pilz finished second and American Anastasia Sanders took third.[20]
| Men | Women | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
| R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
| Toby Roberts | 44+ | 38 | 40+ | 40 | Janja Garnbret | TOP | TOP | TOP | 46+ | ||
| Sorato Anraku | 44+ | 41+ | 41+ | 35 | Jessica Pilz | 42+ | 43+ | 43+ | 40+ | ||
| Sam Avezou | 42+ | 33 | 32 | 31+ | Anastasia Sanders | 48+ | 45+ | 39 | 39+ | ||
| 4 | Shion Omata | 44+ | 36+ | 33+ | 30+ | 4 | Oceania Mackenzie | 41+ | 32+ | 40+ | 38+ |
| 5 | Yannick Flohé | 36+ | 24+ | 33+ | 30+ | 5 | Zélia Avezou | 37+ | 35 | 37+ | 37+ |
| 6 | Max Bertone | 36 | 35+ | 28+ | 25+ | 6 | Erin McNeice | 41+ | 35 | 37+ | 34+ |
| 7 | Ao Yurikusa | 40+ | 36+ | 28+ | 16 | 7 | Mattea Pötzi | 35+ | 34+ | 38+ | 32+ |
| 8 | Lee Dohyun | 44+ | 35+ | 27 | 12+ | 8 | Laura Rogora | 37+ | 45+ | 46+ | 19+ |
Seoul, South Korea (October, 2-6)
55 men and 50 women attended the event.[21]
In men's, Japan's Sorato Anraku won the final lead World Cup of the 2024 season over South Korea's Lee Dohyun. Anraku and Lee had identical scores in the final. Anraku placed higher than Lee by virtue of his better semi-final score. Shion Omata placed third. [22]
In women's, Austria's Jessica Pilz won the gold. Pilz's win in Seoul also secured her win in the 2024 lead World Cup series. Japan's Ai Mori claimed second and USA's Anastasia Sanders placed third. [23]
| Men | Women | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
| R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
| Sorato Anraku | 45+ | 34+ | 43+ | 45+ | Jessica Pilz | TOP | TOP | 37+ | 48 | ||
| Lee Dohyun | 45 | 33+ | 36 | 45+ | Ai Mori | TOP | TOP | 44 | 46 | ||
| Shion Omata | TOP | 34+ | 36 | 35 | Anastasia Sanders | 47 | TOP | 43 | 45 | ||
| 4 | Paul Jenft | 43+ | 32 | 36 | 34+ | 4 | Seo Chae-hyun | TOP | TOP | 34+ | 44+ |
| 5 | Sam Avezou | 45 | 35 | 35+ | 34+ | 5 | Erin McNeice | TOP | TOP | 41 | 43 |
| 6 | Ogata Yoshiyuki | 34+ | 33+ | 36 | 32+ | 6 | Rosa Rekar | 41+ | 38+ | 35+ | 39 |
| 7 | Yuta Imaizumi | 38+ | 34+ | 36 | 26+ | 7 | Yuetong Zhang | TOP | TOP | 34+ | 30+ |
| 8 | Taisei Homma | 41+ | 35 | 36+ | 23 | 8 | Luo Zhilu | 42+ | TOP | 34+ | 30 |
References
- ^ "Results".
- ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2024: M E N LEAD". Retrieved 2025-09-17.
- ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2024: W O M E N LEAD". Retrieved 2025-09-17.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L, S) - Wujiang (CHN) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 14 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup Wujiang 2024: Janja Garnbret tops to win lead title, Toby Roberts takes men's competition". Olympics. 14 April 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "Garnbret and Roberts win the first Lead World Cup of 2024 in Wujiang". Inside Climbing. 15 April 2024. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 June 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "Hometown Hero Jakob Schubert Wins Innsbruck Lead World Cup". Gripped Climbing Magazine. 30 June 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "The two competition legends Schubert and Garnbret climb to gold in Innsbruck". LaCrux. 1 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Chamonix (FRA) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 14 July 2024. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ "Duffy and Watson Take Gold at World Cup Chamonix 2024". USA Climbing. 15 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "Ai Mori and Colin Duffy win Lead World Cup in Chamonix". LaCrux. 15 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "Erin McNeice and Toby Roberts both podium in Lead in Innsbruck". UKClimbing. 1 July 2025. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Briançon (FRA) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 20 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Briançon - Report". UKClimbing. 24 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "The Depth of Talent on Team Japan Is Second to None". Gripped Climbing Magazine. 21 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "村下が初優勝、吉田2位、小俣3位で日本男子が表彰台独占 女子は小武が初V【リードW杯2024 第4戦ブリアンソン大会】" (in Japanese). CLIMBERS. 20 July 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Koper (SLO) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 7 September 2024. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Koper World Cup 2024: Olympic champions Janja Garnbret and Toby Roberts triumph in Slovenia". Olympics. 8 September 2024. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ "OLYMPIC CHAMPIONS DO IT AGAIN IN KOPER". IFSC. 7 September 2024. Retrieved 18 September 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L,S) - Seoul (KOR) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 6 October 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "PILZ DOES THE LEAD DOUBLE AS ANRAKU RETURNS TO WINNING WAYS". IFSC. 6 October 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
- ^ "Jessica Pilz wins in Seoul to snatch 2024 IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Lead series title". Olympics. 6 October 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.