Lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Lead climbing
at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates14 June – 24 September 2023
Champions
Men Sorato Anraku
Women Jessica Pilz

Competition lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 14 June to 24 September 2023. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each event. Sorato Anraku won the men's season title, Jessica Pilz won the women's season title, and Japan won the national team title.[1]

Overview

Date Location Routesetters* Men Women
June, 14-18 Innsbruck, Austria
  • Yann Genoux
  • Florian Murnig
  • Alberto Gnerro
 Sascha Lehmann Janja Garnbret
June 30 - July 2 Villars, Switzerland
  • Romain Cabessut
  • Yann Genoux
  • Julien Gras
 Jakob Schubert Janja Garnbret
July, 7-9 Chamonix, France
  • Hiroshi Okano
  • Brad Weaver
  • Pedro Coral
  • Olga Niemiec
 Toby Roberts Jain Kim
July, 14-15 Briançon, France
  • Christian Bindhammer
  • Marcin Wszolek
  • Alberto Gnerro
 Sorato Anraku Vita Lukan
September, 8-9 Koper, Slovenia
  • Adam Pustelnik
  • Jan Zbranek
  • Martin Hammerer
 Sorato Anraku Janja Garnbret
September, 22-24 Wujiang, China
  • Adam Pustelnik
  • Ma Zida
  • Akito Matsushima
 Sorato Anraku Ai Mori
OVERALL WINNERS Sorato Anraku Jessica Pilz
NATIONAL TEAM Japan

* Chief routesetters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[2]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1 Sorato Anraku 4300 4. 610 (6. 495) 3. 690 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 Alexander Megos 2650 2. 805 3. 690 4. 610 - 5. 545 -
3 Taisei Homma 2455 9. 380 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 (13. 270*) 3. 690
4 Shion Omata 2445 12. 300 8. 415 9. 380 5. 545 (15. 240) 2. 805
5 Toby Roberts 2440 16. 220 4. 610 1. 1000 - 4. 610 -
6 Satone Yoshida 2080 6. 495 12. 300 11. 325 3. 690 13. 270* (14. 260)
7 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2065 (18. 185) 17. 205 14. 260 4. 610 9. 380 4. 610
8 Sascha Lehmann 1940 1. 1000 18. 185 - - 12. 300 7. 455
9 Masahiro Higuchi 1720 7. 455 21. 145 (26. 84) 6. 495 11. 325 12. 300
10 Jakob Schubert 1690 3. 690 1. 1000 - - - -

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[2]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1 Jessica Pilz 3235 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 - 11. 325 2. 805
2 Janja Garnbret 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 - - 1. 1000 -
3 Vita Lukan 2725 (17. 205) 13. 280 7. 455 1. 1000 3. 690 12. 300
4 Ai Mori 2610 2. 805 - - - 2. 805 1. 1000
5 Natsuki Tanii 2525 (26. 84) 6. 495 9. 380 8. 415 5. 545 3. 690
6 Jain Kim 2485 11. 325 7. 455 1. 1000 14. 250 (20. 155) 7. 455
7 Seo Chae-hyun 2430 5. 545 4. 610 8. 415 14. 250 4. 610 -
8 Mia Krampl 2275 6. 495 5. 545 6. 495 - 8. 415 11. 325
9 Nonoha Kume 2090 - 16. 220 2. 805 4. 610 7. 455 -
10 Molly Thompson-Smith 1885 9. 380 9. 380 12. 300 5. 545 13. 280 -

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 14-18)

110 men and 89 women attended the event.[3]

In the men's, Sascha Lehmann won the competition ahead of Alexander Megos. In the final, Lehmann and Megos received identical scores. Lehmann was awarded the gold by virtue of his better semi-final performance. Jakob Schubert won the bronze medal.[4]

In women's, Slovenian Janja Garnbret won the competition — marking her third Lead World Cup win in Innsbruck. Japan's Ai Mori finished second. Austria's Jessica Pilz placed third.[5]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
Sascha Lehmann 41 TOP 43+ 44+ Janja Garnbret TOP 47+ 46 39+
Alexander Megos 41 TOP 39+ 44+ Ai Mori 49+ 43+ 46+ 33+
Jakob Schubert 39+ TOP 43 42+ Jessica Pilz 49+ 40+ 40+ 25+
4 Sorato Anraku 41+ TOP 40 42+ 4 Brooke Raboutou 43+ 43 34+ 25+
5 Mejdi Schalck 39 39 40 42+ 5 Seo Chae-hyun 49+ 45 46+ 25
6 Satone Yoshida 41+ 41+ 39+ 42+ 6 Mia Krampl 45+ 39+ 36+ 25
7 Masahiro Higuchi 39+ 38+ 42+ 42 7 Natalia Grossman 46+ 43+ 34+ 24+
8 Alberto Ginés López 21 40+ 40 42 8 Hélène Janicot 37+ 43+ 32+ 7+
9 Taisei Homma 41 40+ 42 40+

Villars, Switzerland (June 30 - July 2)

94 men and 83 women attended the event.[6]

In men's, Innsbruck winner Sascha Lehmann failed to advance past the semi-finals. Last year's winner Taisei Homma failed to advance past the semi-finals. Austrian Jakob Schubert won the competition — his first lead World Cup win since Innsbruck 2021. Czech Republic's Adam Ondra and Germany's Alexander Megos claimed silver and bronze respectively.[7]

In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret took the win, topping all routes in the qualification, semi-final and final rounds. This marked Garnbret's seventh consecutive Villars Lead World Cup win. Austria's Jessica Pilz and USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second and third respectively.[8]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
Jakob Schubert 40+ TOP 36+ 42+ Janja Garnbret TOP TOP TOP TOP
Adam Ondra 41 33 39+ 41+ Jessica Pilz 41+ TOP 35+ 43+
Alexander Megos 40+ 26+ 36+ 40 Brooke Raboutou TOP 37+ 45+ 43
4 Toby Roberts 40+ 35 36+ 39+ 4 Seo Chae-hyun 39+ TOP 45+ 43
5 Colin Duffy 38 29+ TOP 37+ 5 Mia Krampl 36+ 34+ 37 40+
6 Sorato Anraku 37 34 TOP 36+ 6 Natsuki Tanii 41+ 20+ 40+ 36
7 Pan Yufei 38+ 30+ 32+ 34 7 Jain Kim 39+ 34+ 36 22+
8 Shion Omata 37 34+ 33+ 24+ 8 Mattea Pötzi 34+ 30+ 37+ 17+

Chamonix, France (July, 7-9)

92 men and 83 women attended the event.[9]

In men's, Great Britain's Toby Roberts secured the only top in the final climbed second in the final — claiming his first Lead World Cup win. France's Sam Avezou and Japan's Sorato Anraku won their first IFSC World Cup medals —silver and bronze respectively.[10][11]

In women's, South Korean veteran Jain Kim claimed gold. Japan's Nonoha Kume claimed her first World Cup silver medal at her second World Cup ahead of France's Hélène Janicot due to countback to semi-finals. [12]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
Toby Roberts TOP TOP 50+ TOP Jain Kim TOP 35+ 39+ 43+
Sam Avezou 45+ TOP 39+ 50 Nonoha Kume TOP TOP 43+ 38+
Sorato Anraku TOP TOP 50+ 48 Hélène Janicot 46+ 32+ 36 38+
4 Alexander Megos 44+ TOP 40+ 46+ 4 Jessica Pilz TOP TOP 44+ 37+
5 Stefan Scherz 37+ TOP 42 41 5 Miho Nonaka 42+ TOP 36+ 37+
6 Colin Duffy 44 TOP 46+ 39+ 6 Mia Krampl TOP 35+ 35 33
7 Luka Potočar 44 TOP 39+ 39+ 7 Vita Lukan 42+ 35+ 35 29+
8 Lee Do-hyun 44+ TOP 40+ 39 8 Seo Chae-hyun TOP TOP 46+ 22

Briançon, France (July, 14-15)

76 men and 67 women attended the event.[13]

In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Sorato Anraku clinched his first lead World Cup win. Taisei Homma placed second, and Satone Yoshida placed third. There were no fewer than seven Japanese climbers in the men's final - a World Cup record. Homma and Yoshida had identical final scores but Homma claimed silver by virtue of his better semi-final performance.[14]

In women's, Chamonix winner Jain Kim failed to advance past the semi-finals. In the final, Slovenia's Vita Lukan won her first lead World Cup ahead of Czechia's Eliska Adamovska and France's Manon Hily, who won her first World Cup bronze medal. [15]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
Sorato Anraku TOP TOP TOP TOP Vita Lukan 41+ 41+ 44+ 46
Taisei Homma 45+ TOP 45+ 49+ Eliska Adamovska 42+ TOP 49+ 44+
Satone Yoshida TOP 40+ 43+ 49+ Manon Hily 44+ 41+ 44+ 44+
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata 45+ 36 43 49 4 Nonoha Kume 49+ 44+ 49 43+
5 Shion Omata 45+ TOP 43 44+ 5 Molly Thompson-Smith 50+ 42+ 44+ 35
6 Masahiro Higuchi 45+ 40 TOP 40+ 6 Camille Pouget 42+ 38+ 44+ 34+
7 Hannes Puman 43+ 36+ 46 39 7 Martina Demmel 40+ 40 43+ 34+
8 Haruki Uemura 40+ 36+ 45+ 37+ 8 Natsuki Tanii TOP 43+ 45+ 12+

Koper, Slovenia (September, 8-9)

59 men and 62 women attended the event.[16]

In men's, the final route saw many athletes struggling low down the route with friction on a sloper, resulting in similar scores for 5 of the 8 climbers. Japan's Sorato Anraku, having just won the Briançon lead World Cup, topped the final route, securing the win and the overall 2023 lead World Cup title. USA's Jesse Grupper took second place and Olympic champion Alberto Ginés López took third, his first World Cup medal since 2019. [17]

In women's, Olympic champion Janja Garnbret topped the final route to claim the win. Last year's Koper World Cup winner Ai Mori finished second and Slovenian Vita Lukan took third.[18]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
Sorato Anraku TOP 36+ 45 TOP Janja Garnbret TOP TOP 35+ TOP
Jesse Grupper TOP 36+ 32+ 42+ Ai Mori 43+ TOP 35+ 44+
Alberto Ginés López TOP TOP 25+ 23 Vita Lukan 37+ 33 33 40+
4 Toby Roberts TOP 14+ 37+ 21+ 4 Seo Chae-hyun 42 42+ 34 38+
5 Alexander Megos TOP 35+ 29+ 21+ 5 Natsuki Tanii 43 34+ 34 33+
6 Yannick Flohé TOP 35+ 31+ 21 6 Laura Rogora 38 42+ 31+ 33+
7 Sam Avezou TOP 33+ 29+ 20+ 7 Nonoha Kume 33+ 41 31+ 31+
8 Luka Potočar TOP 13+ 27 18+ 8 Mia Krampl 41+ 42 31+ 11+

Wujiang, China (September, 22-24)

48 men and 45 women attended the event.[19]

In men's, Japan's Sorato Anraku won the final lead World Cup of the 2023 season over compatriots Shion Omata and Taisei Homma. [20]

In women's, Japan's Ai Mori won the gold. Austria's Jessica Pilz took silver, securing her win the 2023 lead World Cup series. Japan's Natsuki Tanii placed third, her first podium since 2019. [21]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
Sorato Anraku 35+ 40+ TOP 39+ Ai Mori TOP 39+ TOP 36+
Shion Omata 33+ 36+ 34+ 30+ Jessica Pilz 37+ 32 34 31+
Taisei Homma 34 TOP TOP 26+ Natsuki Tanii TOP 33+ TOP 26+
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata 26+ 31+ 34+ 26+ 4 Zhang Yuetong 33 26+ 28+ 22+
5 Song Yunchan 31 31 42+ 24+ 5 Futaba Ito 33+ 32+ 28+ 22
6 Ao Yurikusa 31+ 25+ 38+ 23+ 6 Miho Nonaka 33 33+ 28+ 21+
7 Sascha Lehmann 29+ 38+ 38+ 23 7 Jain Kim 36+ 35+ 34 20+
8 Nicolas Collin 26+ 30+ 37+ 23 8 Manon Hily 16+ 28+ 28+ 17+

References

  1. ^ "Results".
  2. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Lead". Retrieved 2023-06-24.
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B, L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 18 June 2023.
  4. ^ "Sascha Lehmann wins gold at the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck". LaCrux. 19 June 2023.
  5. ^ "Garnbret and Anraku win Boulder; Garnbret and Lehmann take Lead in Innsbruck World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 19 June 2023.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 June 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
  7. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Villars: Olympic champ Janja Garnbret scores 40th World Cup win with lead triumph". Olympics. 2 July 2023.
  8. ^ "Garnbret and Schubert win Villars IFSC Lead World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 2 July 2023.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Chamonix (FRA) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 9 July 2023.
  10. ^ "Roberts Wins First Lead Gold In Chamonix". Inside Climbing. 12 July 2023.
  11. ^ "Gold for Jain Kim and Toby Roberts at the Chamonix IFSC Lead World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 10 July 2023.
  12. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Chamonix: Kim Jain and Toby Roberts win lead titles". Olympics. 10 July 2023.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Briançon (FRA) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 15 July 2023.
  14. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Briançon: Vita Lukan and Anraku Sorato clinch first lead World Cup wins". Olympics. 16 July 2023.
  15. ^ "Japan Sweeps Top Six Spots at Men's Briançon World Cup". Gripped Climbing Magazine. 16 July 2023.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Koper (SLO) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 9 September 2023.
  17. ^ "Garnbret and Anraku win IFSC Lead World Cup Koper 2023". UKClimbing. 12 September 2023.
  18. ^ "IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Koper 2023: Janja Garnbret and Anraku Sorato wins lead titles". Olympics. 9 September 2023.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Wujiang (CHN) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 24 September 2023.
  20. ^ "Team Japan dominates in Wujiang, Pilz and Megos on the overall World Cup podium". LaCrux. 25 September 2023.
  21. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Japan dominates final event, as Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato claim lead titles". Olympics. 24 September 2023.
This article is issued from Wikipedia. The text is available under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 unless otherwise noted. Additional terms may apply for the media files.